Ngelixa ndandithenga i-12,500 67 yeenyawo ngaphezulu komphakamo wolwandle kwimarike engekude neLake Titicaca, ndafumanisa ukuba ndingathenga ilama malunga ne- $ 60, ipateni yobulongwe beenkomo ngeesenti ezingama-30 kunye nekati ngeesenti ezingama-XNUMX.
Imfuyo engaqhelekanga kunye nenkunkuma ayingowona umdla udibana nawo apha, nangona kunjalo. Abantu baseUro basePeru babehlala phezu kwamanzi eChibi iTiticaca ukususela kudala ngaphambi kokuqalisa kwempucuko yamaIncan kumawaka eminyaka eyadlulayo. Kwaye loo nto iphezu kwechibi.
Abantu balapho bakha iziqithi ezineengcongolo abakha kuzo izindlu zeengcongolo nalapho bahamba khona ngamaphenyane amahle aneengcongolo. Bayaloba, baqokelele imifuno etyiwayo edadayo kwaye babambise okanye badubule iintaka ukuze bafumane ukutya. Le yindlela yabo yokuphila, nangona ulutsha luqalisa ukufudukela elunxwemeni nangaphaya.
Mhlawumbi ulutsha lujonge uzinzo. Ndakufumanisa kulucelomngeni ukuhamba kwiziqithi ezincinci ezinengcongolo, ingakumbi kungekho mqobo ukuthintela ukuba ungatyibiliki emanzini anomkhenkce. Nangona abemi besiqithi ngokuthe rhoqo bethabatha indawo yomaleko ongaphezulu weengcongolo, abantwana baye baziwa ngokuwa xa iingcongolo ezikumazantsi esi siqithi zibolile. Iziqu ezishinyeneyo ze-eucalyptus zikhombe ezi ziqithi emazantsi echibi.
Ngomnye ubusika obugqats’ ubhobhoyi ngoJulayi, indoda yaseUro kunye nonyana wayo basithabatha mna nomyeni wam kwizibuko eliphambi kweHotele iTitlaka ejongene neNxweme yasePuno, apho sasihlala khona. Isibhakabhaka namanzi ayeluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, yaye iintaba ezigutyungelwe likhephu zaseBolivia zazibengezela mgama njengoko sasidada kunxweme lwethu oluselunxwemeni lwaseHamptons kwindlu yabahambi sisiya kwihlabathi leziqithi ezineengcongolo, phezu kwezindlu zeengcongolo ezibonakala ziethe-ethe kakhulu ingcuka engendawo. anokuzifunqula ngokulula.
Iibhaluni zeBubble-Gum
Ukufika kwesinye seziqithi ezincinci, mhlawumbi iimitha ezingama-50 ubude, safumana inkcubeko yakudala kunye nabantwana bevuthela iibhaluni ezipinki. Ixhegokazi langaphambili lalinxibe iimpahla ezidlakadlaka, ezinemibala yomnyama lalincancisa ngokuzolileyo usana lwalo. Abantwana babedlala umdlalo ofana nethegi njengoko iingcongolo ezifumileyo zazintywila phantsi kweenyawo zabo. Kwavuthuza umoya obandayo phezu kwesiqithi.
Ibali libanga ukuba u-Uro wokugqibela onegazi elimsulwa wafa kwiminyaka engama-50 eyadlulayo. Kule mihla, imizila yabo yemfuza incinane kakhulu, iUro idla ngokutshata nama-Aymara namaQuechua asekuhlaleni.
Njengoko ndandijonge ngaphandle kweso siqithi, iChibi iTiticaca lalibonakala liqhubeka ngonaphakade. Elona chibi liphakamileyo ekunokusetyenzwa kulo ehlabathini lulwandle olukhulu olungaphakathi elizweni olusuka eBolivia. Ukuhamba ngesikhephe ukusuka ePuno ukuya kwindawo yonxweme lwaseBolivia ekufutshane nekomkhulu laseLa Paz luhambo olungaphezu kweekhilomitha ezili-100. Umda wala mazwe mabini ulele kwenye indawo embindini wechibi.
Loo mzila wasemanzini wenza iLake Titicaca ibe yindawo exakekileyo ebusuku, xa abarhwebi bewela ngamaphenyane amancinane, behamba ngeenkwenkwezi yaye bephethe izinto zaseBolivia ezinexabiso eliphantsi ukuze bazithengise kwiimarike zasekuhlaleni ePeru.
'Zonke izinto ezingekho mthethweni'
Ngomkhukula wokungeniswa kwamanye amazwe ngokungekho mthethweni, imarike eJuliaca, ePeru - apho ndabona khona iikati ezingabizi kakhulu - zikhula ngeeCawa.
“Imali engekho mthethweni. Yonke into engekho mthethweni, ”utshilo umkhokeli wam, uJulio Suano.
"Bathubelezisa iphepha langasese?" Ndibuzile.
“Ngokuqinisekileyo,” watsho. “Kwanezithuthuthu zaseTshayina kunye neecrackers. Kwaye igesi. Igesi ziisoli ezintandathu (malunga ne-R1.93) ilitha eBolivia nezili-15 (malunga nee-R4.83) ilitha.”
Ngemini elandelayo sahamba ngesikhephe saya kwisiqithi esihle saseTaquile. Esi sisiqithi sokwenyani, samatye anqabileyo kunye neethafa ezibukhali ezakhiwe yi-Inca; Amasimi abugolide, umhlaba otyebileyo omdaka ngemisele kunye nemithi evuthulukileyo eluhlaza.
Yongeza kwizindlu ezinophahla olubomvu, kwaye yayinokunyuswa ngomoya ukusuka eTuscany, nangona kungekho mbane kunye neemoto. USuano uthe abemi besi siqithi bahlukanisiwe nenkcubeko yanamhlanje de kwangoo-1950.
Ilaphu 'Imisebenzi yobugcisa'
Uqoqosho lukaTaquile lusekelwe kwisithethe eside sokuluka iimpahla ezilukiweyo ezikhethekileyo kangangokuba kwiminyaka emine eyadlulayo i-Unesco yabhengeza esi siqithi nobugcisa baso njengenye yezinto ezingama-43 “zeMizobo yoBugcisa yoMlomo naMafa Angaphathekiyo Oluntu.” Balukela izinto zabo ezimibalabala kwizinto ezilukiweyo nezinyotywayo ezisusela kumaxesha angaphambi kweSpanishi.
Siye saphakamisa umzila onyukayo wokubuyela umva ukuya kwincopho yesiqithi ukuze sibone iisampulu zemisebenzi yobugcisa. UMiguel Cruz Qispe, omnye wabona baluki abadumileyo baseTaquile, wabulisa iphenyane lethu waza walibophelela ngokoqobo izinyuko ezingama-535 eziyenye indlela eya phezulu. Waphinda wasibulisa encotsheni, engaphefumli nakancinane emva kobomi bokunyuka kwiindawo eziphakamileyo.
Amadoda, abafazi nabantwana bayaluka baze baluke kunye, yaye banxiba iimpahla zesintu abazenzayo. Abaluki beTaquile baziwa kakhulu ngechullo, umnqwazi othuniweyo owawunxitywa ngamadoda kwiinkulungwane ezintandathu ezidlulileyo.
I-chullo ebomvu-namhlophe ibonisa ukufumaneka komtshato, ngelixa zonke iindlela ezibomvu sele zithathiwe. Abemi besiqithi baziwa nangebhanti lekhalenda elinxitywa ngamadoda, elibonisa amaxesha onyaka, imisebenzi yokulima kunye nezithethe zasekuhlaleni unyaka wonke.
Ixabiso eliphezulu, Akukho Haggle
Amaxabiso aphezulu ePeru. Ibhanti lekhalenda elintsonkothileyo lingaya ngaphezulu kwe-100 yeedola, kwaye kubonakala ngathi akukho mdla omncinci wokurhweba. Kwenye indawo ndithenge ibhegi elukwe ngesandla kwibhinqa elisecaleni kwendlela nge-5 yeedola. Kuyavunywa ukuba, yayingengomsebenzi wobugcisa otyunjwe yi-UNESCO.
I-Hotel Titlaka entsha, ihotele ye-boutique ye-18-suite, iya kude ukujongana nokungabikho kweendawo zokuhlala ezintle malunga neLake Titicaca. Izinto zangaphakathi ezincinci zibonelela ngemvelaphi egqibeleleyo kubugcisa obucacileyo bemveli obuqhakaza kuzo zonke iikona.
Indawo nganye inebhafu enkulu yokufunxa, ilungele izihlunu ezibuhlungu emva kokunyuka iTaquile, kunye neefestile ezinkulu zokujonga ichibi. Izinga le-552- $ 725 ngomntu ngamnye ngobusuku bubandakanya ibhodi epheleleyo kunye nazo zonke ii-cocktails, iziselo zendlu kunye newayini kunye nokutya, kunye nohambo lwamaphenyane ukuya eziqithini kunye nokutyelela okukhokelwayo kwiindawo zendawo kunye needolophana. Iindwendwe ezigcinelwe ubusuku obubini ziya kufumana ubusuku obongezelelweyo.
Iikayak kunye neenqanawa zolwandle ziyafumaneka ukuze zisetyenziswe kwiindwendwe. Ngokunjalo neetanki zeoksijini, eziphilise umyeni wam kwimizuzu emihlanu emva kobusuku bokugula kokuphakama.
