Ukuzalwa kwezacholo
Uphando luye lwafumanisa ukuba enye yeentsimbi zokuqala zifunyenwe emqolombeni waseMonaco kwaye zibuyele kwiminyaka eyi-25,000 eyadlulayo. Nangona yayisisiqwenga esilula esenziwe kumathambo eentlanzi, kwakungeyonto imangalisayo njengoko izihombiso zokuqala zazivela ekuzingeleni (oko kukuthi, amazinyo, iinzipho, iimpondo, amathambo). Abazingeli babekholelwa ukuba ukunxiba ukubulala kwabo kuya kubazisela ithamsanqa. Umzingeli olichule wayenentlonipho yabemi belali kwaye amatye anqabileyo axelela wonke umntu ngoloyiso.
Njengoko ixesha lihamba, ubucwebe buye banxitywa njengamakhubalo okukhusela amashwa kunye nezifo kunye nokulawula ukuchuma, ubutyebi, uthando kwaye kukholelwa ukuba kunika iipropati zomlingo. Njengoko inkulungwane iqhubela phambili, ubucwebe babonisa ukunxibelelana kwabantu kunye namakhoboka anxibe izacholo ukubonisa ukuba ngubani owakhe kunye namakhonkco omtshato abonisa ukuzibophelela kwabantu ababini omnye komnye. Abafazi bamaRoma abazizityebi babenazo izacholo ezibizayo (okt, amacici, izacholo, imisesane, iibhrawutshi, izacholo zomqala, izithsaba) ezihonjiswe ngamatye anqabileyo (okt, iiopal, iiemeraldi, iidayimani, itopazi namaperile). Ngaxa lithile eYurophu yayingamagosa ecawa azizityebi nakwizikhundla eziphezulu kuphela awayefumana imvume yokunxiba amatye anqabileyo njengoko ayeyimiqondiso yobutyebi namandla.
I-Italiya ingena kwiNdawo yobucwebe
AmaYiputa azisa amaTaliyane kwingcamango yobucwebe (700 BCE). Ngelo xesha, uyilo lwase-Italiya lwalungajongwa njengento ethandekayo njengeengcamango zamaGrike kwaye ezinye zibizwa ngokuba ziingceba ze-Etruscan / zase-Italian njenge-barbaric. Njengoko iinkulungwane zadlulayo impembelelo yamaGrike iye yadityaniswa kwiingcamango zobucwebe baseItali kwaye ngoku iziqwenga zithathwa njengemisebenzi ecekethekileyo yobugcisa.
Ubomi obumnandi beZidwangube
AmaRoma ayenobuchule bokuthengisa yaye ekhuthaza ukuthandwa kwezacholo zegolide; okukhona igolide inxitywayo, kokukhona umntu esiba sisityebi. Ukuziphatha kwabo "kwakuphezulu" kangangokuba kufuneka kubhalwe umthetho othintela ukusetyenziswa okanye ukusetyenziswa kwezinto ezithile ngamalungu akhethiweyo abemi. Eyaziwa ngokuba yimithetho ye-sumptuary banqanda ukusetyenziswa okubonakalayo. Umbono womthetho wawukulawula inkcitho yezityebi kodwa wawuyilelwe ukugcina abantu abaphantsi ukuba bangafiphali imigca yokwahluka kwentlalo eyaphunyezwa ngokwenza ukungabikho mthethweni kwempahla ethile, amalaphu kunye nemibala kuye nabani na hayi ubuhandiba bokunxiba.
Ngowama-213 BCE uMlawuli uFabius wababekela imiqathango amabhinqa ukuba anxibe isiqingatha segram yegolide ngexesha. Oonozakuzaku, oonozakuzaku kunye nabahloniphekileyo banxiba imisesane yabo yegolide esidlangalaleni ukuze bachonge isikhundla sabo kurhulumente njengoko umthetho we-sumtuary wawukwalela ukunxitywa kweringi ngasese. Kwakunxityelelwa amakhonkco enziwe ngegolide okanye ngentsimbi ukuze kunxitywe amakhonkco eminwe yonke.
Ngokunyuka kokuthandwa kwezacholo, abaqulunqi babe ngabokuqala ukuba nenkululeko yokuzama kwaye benze iziseko zokwenza ubucwebe bangoku. Abakhandi begolide abavela kwimimandla esempuma njengeGrisi kunye neTurkey yanamhlanje baya kuBukhosi baseRoma (ngokukodwa indawo yase-Etruscan yaseTuscany), apho amatye anqabileyo abona khona ukuqala kwezenzo ezifana nokudibanisa isinyithi, ukukrola kunye nokubeka ilitye ngelixa begqibezela indlela "yegranulation" yokucoca. ukwenza ubucwebe begolide.
UkuSetyenziswa kwaBathengi kuncipha. Ukusetyenziswa Konqulo Kuyanda
Ngokuwa kweRoma, isiko lobucwebe lehla ekuthandeni. Ezinye impucuko zafumanisa iidipozithi zezimbiwa ezinqabileyo nezimbiweyo zinyusa unikezelo lwegolide lulonke lugcina urhwebo lwezacholo luphila eNtshona Yurophu lusebenza kwiinjongo zeCawa yamaRoma Katolika. Amatye anqabileyo kunye nempahla yegolide eyenziwe ngesandla yayibekwe kwindawo yokugcina i-cathedral okanye kwiinkundla zakomkhulu. Uluntu lwalunxibe ubucwebe obuncinane kakhulu ngaphandle kwesiqwengana somtyikityo esibonakalisa izithethe okanye iinkolelo zonqulo nezentlalo.
Royalty Refresh
Ngenkulungwane ye-11 iindibano zocweyo ezisekwe kwikhaya loonongendi zaqala ukuhla kwaye zathatyathelw' indawo yizindlu zobugcisa behlabathi. Inkululeko yakhokelela abakhandi begolide ukuba basebenze ngokunqweneleka ebukhosini nakwizidwangube kwakhona, beyila imibutho yokuqala yabakhandi begolide ngeminyaka yoo-1100. Izacholo zegolide zase-Italiya zahlala zezona zifunwa kakhulu kwishishini kunye neVicenza kunye noFlorence iziko loyilo lobucwebe / ukwenza inkuthazo.
Eyona nto idumileyo yayiyimisesane yeminwe emele imiqondiso emihle kunye neetalismans. Kwakhona zazisetyenziselwa ukukhonza njengetywina kwaye zahlala ziluphawu lweofisi yokulawula. Iibrowutshi zeMedallion ezinamatye anqabileyo zazinemibhalo ngasemva ukuze zikhumbuze lowo uzinxibileyo ngeentsingiselo zabo zonqulo. Ezinye ii-brooches zesitayile seringi zibonisa imiboniso enemifanekiso emincinci eyigolide ejikelezwe ngamatye amancinci amaninzi anemibhalo echaza imotif.
Ngenkulungwane ye-14 kunye ne-Renaissance, ubucwebe base-Italiyane basasazeka kwezinye iindawo zehlabathi njengokwandiswa korhwebo lwangaphandle lwase-Italiya beshiya ngasemva impembelelo yecawa kunye nomqondiso wokubuyela kwizimbo zakudala, iintsomi kunye nesimboli esingaqhelekanga. Kwiminyaka engama-200 eyalandelayo kwabakho ukubuyela kwisitayile samandulo saseRoma kunye nemfuno ehlaziyiweyo yobucwebe begolide. Ubugcisa bamatye anqabileyo eTuscany bunyuke kakhulu ekusebenzeni nasekuboniseni umbulelo kubutyebi obuye bahla ukuya kudidi oluphakathi lwamaTaliyane.
Uyilo lobucwebe lwaluhleli kwinqanaba elifanayo lobugcisa njengomsebenzi wabapeyinti abahloniphekileyo be-Renaissance yase-Italian, abakroli kunye nabayili bezakhiwo.
UDonatello, uBrunelleschi kunye noBotticelli baqeqeshelwa ukwenza umsebenzi wegolide benceda ukwenza ingqiqo yokwenyani kunye nobucukubhede kubucwebe obunxitywa zizifundo zabo ezipeyintiweyo neziqingqiweyo.
Njengoko ubucwebe beRenaissance busanda, ubuhandiba bamazwe ahlukeneyo aseYurophu babamba ukhuphiswano ukuze babone ukuba ngubani omhle kakhulu ngamabhaso asekwe kubucwebe obunxitywayo kwaye oku konyusa imfuno yamatye anqabileyo amahle. Amatye anqabileyo afumaneka ngexesha leRenaissance kwaye abaxhasi abazizityebi bawakhwaza. Zazingasekho iintsuku zokuhonjiswa kwegolide esulungekileyo njengoko amatye anqabileyo anjengeeperile namatye anqabileyo azisa umbala oqaqambileyo kwaye ahluke kwiqhekeza ngalinye.
Ukuya phambili ngokukhawuleza: Ubucwebe liShishini elikhulu e-Itali
Ngo-2020, imarike yobucwebe behlabathi yayixabisa malunga ne-228 yeebhiliyoni zeedola kwaye iqikelelwa ukuba ifike kwi-307 yeebhiliyoni zeedola ngo-2026. Ubucwebe bubaluleke kakhulu kwimarike yaseItali emele i-1.54 yeebhiliyoni zeedola ezithunyelwa ngaphandle (2019), inyuke yaya kutsho kwi-1.7 yeebhiliyoni zeedola (2020) kwaye ibonelela ngengqesho abantu abangaphezu kwama-22,000. I-US yimarike yezacholo yesithathu ngobukhulu e-Itali, emele i-8.9 yepesenti yokuthengisa ngaphandle. Ngoku kukho ngaphezu kwe-1000 iinkampani zobucwebe zase-Italiya kwiimarike zaseMelika. ICampania, iLombardy, iPiedmont, iTuscany kunye neVeneto yeyona mimandla ibalulekileyo e-Italiya yoyilo lobucwebe. Zezi ndawo apho amagcisa atyhila ingqokelela yawo.
IManifesto yobucwebe baseTaliyane. Isiganeko
Kwiintsuku ezintathu ubucwebe baseNtaliyane babuboniswe kwisiganeko esixhaswe yi-Futurist, i-Arhente ye-Italian Trade Agency (ITA), i-Federorafi kunye ne-Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Inkqubo yayiyilwe njengamava emfundo kunye nothungelwano kwaye yabonisa ngaphezulu kwe-50 yeebrendi zobucwebe zase-Italiya ezigubungela amacandelo amaninzi orhwebo lwezacholo lwase-Italiya ukusuka kubunewunewu kunye nokukodwa ukuya kumakhonkco asisiseko namacici.
Ukusebenzisa ifomati yeSalotto (iqela elitelekile lemizi-mveliso, imali kunye nabarhwebi bamandla ezopolitiko abaye balawula ishishini lase-Itali), abathengi abangaphezu kwama-300, kuquka uNeiman Marcus, uBergdorf Goodman, kunye nabameli baseMayfair, amatye anqabileyo aseLondon kuquka abathengisi abakhulu (oko kukuthi, iZales kunye Umsayino).
UFabrizio Giustarini, uMlawuli we-ICE-Houston Agency, uchukumisekile ngesi siganeko, wagqiba ukuba kukho imfuneko yokuba imarike yase-US ifumane, kwisiganeko esisodwa, umnikelo ongcono kakhulu wecandelo lobucwebe. UClaudio Piaserico, uMongameli we-Federorafi, naye wafumanisa ukuba isiganeko singumbono olungileyo njengoko sibonakalisa isakhono samatye anqabileyo ase-Italiya ukukhuphisana kwimarike yehlabathi.
Abavelisi boMsitho:
uDennis Ulrich, uPiazza Italia umseki; UPaola De Lucas, uMseki weFuturist; UClaudia Piaserico, umongameli weFedeorafi.
Ezimbalwa zam iziqwenga ozithandayo ukusuka kumboniso:
© UGqirha Elinor Garely. Inqaku lelungelo lokushicilela, kubandakanya iifoto, alinakuphinda liveliswe ngaphandle kwemvume ebhaliweyo evela kumbhali.
INTO ONOKUYITHATHA KWELI NQAKU:
- The idea of the law was to control the spending of the richest of the rich but were also designed to keep the lower classes from blurring the lines of social distinction which was accomplished by making it illegal for specific garments, fabrics and colors for anyone who was not nobility to wear.
- Goldsmiths from eastern areas such as Greece and modern-day Turkey went to the Roman Empire (specifically the Etruscan region of Tuscany), where jewelers witnessed the beginning of practices like alloying metals, engraving and stone setting while perfecting the “granulation” technique for fine gold jewelry crafting.
- Senators, ambassadors and noblemen wore their gold rings in public to identify their position in government as the sumptuary law prohibited the wearing of rings in private.
