Ngentsasa enelanga eSouth Greenland uphawu olukwihempe ka-Ib Laursen ngokungalindelekanga lwatsho konke. Umzobo olula womgca ubonisa intaba ye-iconic enyuka emva kwelali yaseNarsaq, indawo yekhephu esisigxina echazwe kumsonto. Phakathi kwentsimi yeentyatyambo zasendle ndiye ndancokola noLaursen, isebe lezokhenketho lomntu omnye laseNarsaq, malunga neendlela ezininzi zokufudumala kwehlabathi ebezichaphazela uluntu lwakhe. Emva koko ndaqonda ukuba kwaloo ntaba iphakame emva kwakhe.

KwakungoJulayi kwaye kwintaba yokwenyani ikhephu elisisigxina lanyibilika.

Ngokuqhelekileyo ukusasazwa kwizibalo kunye nokuzingela, umxholo wokutshintsha kwemozulu awuqhelekanga ubambeke. Kwaye nangona ndinayo into yokujonga umnqantsa wegranite kunye nomkhenkce ovuzayo, bendize eGreenland ukuze ndibone ukuba ingaba sisikhululo sokuphonononga ifuthe lobushushu behlabathi kwimpilo yesijikelezi-langa.

Ngokwenene, iGreenland iphantsi kotshintsho lwemozulu, ukuvela kwayo ngokwasemzimbeni kuyabonakala nakundwendwe nje oluqhelekileyo. Ubuhle obumangalisayo, obungenakulibaleka besi siqithi—esona sikhulu ehlabathini—bunyanzela umntu otyeleleyo ukuba ajongane nekamva lesi sijikelezi-langa nanini na, nangeendlela ezingalindelekanga.
Kwabo bethu baye bavavanya ingubo enkulu yomkhenkce yaseGreenland ukusuka kwisihlalo sefestile yenqwelomoya kwiinyawo ezingama-36,000, sisendleleni egodukayo sisuka eYurophu, kunzima ukukhanyela ulonwabo lokuhla kwinqwelomoya kunye nokunxibelelana nenye yezona ndawo zikude kakhulu emhlabeni. iindawo. Kodwa ngaphambi kokuba sifike apho ndandingazi ncam ukuba mandilindele ntoni—babeqhuba njani abantu kwindawo endinokucinga ngayo ukuba yindawo emfiliba ngendlela engenakwenzeka?

Phantse azikho iindlela ezidibanisa idolophu nenye—eyona ndawo inde yeasphalt ziikhilomitha ezisixhenxe. Iindawo zokuhlala ezigudle unxweme olusemzantsi-ntshona zidityaniswe zizikhephe kabini ngeveki ezisebenza ngexesha lasehlotyeni, xa amazibuko engenamkhenkce. Kungenjalo umntu ubhabhe ukusuka edolophini ukuya edolophini, rhoqo ngenkonzo yehelikopta ecwangcisiweyo yeAir Greenland. Kodwa umgangatho wobomi unokulinganiswa ngezinye iindlela.

“IGreenland lilizwe elityebe kakhulu,” watsho uAasi Chemnitz Narup, usodolophu wekomkhulu laseGreenland, iNuuk (aka Godthåb). “Sinezilwanyana zasendle ezininzi, amanzi acocekileyo nomoya ococekileyo—ezona zinto ziyimfuneko ebomini. Kwaye sinemithombo yezimbiwa: igolide, iirubhi, iidayimani, i-zinc. Andisathethi ke ngoovimba baseBaffin Bay. Zidityanisiwe, zinokunceda iGreenland ikhuseleke kwiDenmark ngenye imini, ilizwe elizilawulayo kulo phantse iinkulungwane ezintathu.

Kodwa ukufudumala kwehlabathi kuyawenza nzima lo mfanekiso. Amanzi ashushu athetha ukuba i-shrimp eyayikhe yazalisa ii-fjords zaseMazantsi eGreenland ziye zafudukela emantla, nto leyo enyanzela uluntu olulobayo ukuba lufune ukubanjiswa kwalo kumanzi anzulu. Liyinyaniso elokuba, ixesha elide lasehlotyeni liye lavumela ukuba kuqaliswe ezolimo nemfuyo emazantsi—zombini zixhaswa kakhulu. Kodwa emantla, iilwandle ekunokuthiwa zibe ngumkhenkce ebusika ngabunye azisathembekanga, nto leyo ethetha ukuba ukuzingela—ibhere emhlophe, iwalrus, inja yaselwandle—ayinakuthenjwa.

Ushishino lwezokhenketho olusakhasayo lunempumelelo ngeenqanawa zokuhamba ngenqanawa, luzingca ngotyelelo lwama-35 ngehlobo lika-2008, oluphinda kabini umnxeba wonyaka ophelileyo. Isitampu sepaspoti saseGreenland sifumana i-cachet phakathi kwesihlwele esenziweyo: Kunyaka ophelileyo uBill Gates weza kwi-heli-skiing, kunye no-Google uSergey Brin kunye noLarry Page bahamba ngekite-surfing.

Izindlu ezenziwe ngamaplanga eQaqortoq ((Julianehåb). Ifoto ngu-Jens Buurgaard Nielsen.

Iintsuku ezimbini eNuuk, ikomkhulu laseGreenland kunye nedolophu apho inqwelo-moya yam yahlala khona, zazanele ukuhlolisisa loo mmandla, kuquka nokuhamba ngephenyane ukuya kutsho kwiifjords ezimeleneyo nezizele ngumkhenkce. Kuyacaca ukuba uhambo yayiluhambo lokubukela iminenga kodwa xa iingxilimbela zazingengomboniso sazanelisa ngobuhle obuthambileyo bendawo encinci, yasehlotyeni ebizwa ngokuba yiQoornoq, sithandeka ngenjikalanga enelanga echithwe sivuna iintyatyambo zasendle kwindawo engasemva yelolling. iintaba zomkhenkce. Sivale imini ngokutya ukutya okumnandi eNipisa, ivenkile yokutyela e-trout etshayiweyo, i-mushroom risotto, ifayile yenkomo yenkomo, kunye namaqunube anobisi olugobileyo, sibuyela ehotele ezinzulwini zobusuku ngaphandle kokufuna isibane okanye isibane esikhulu. Elinye lawona makomkhulu amancinci ehlabathi-abemi be-16,000-i-Nuuk imfutshane kwi-charisma yezokwakha kodwa inoluhlu lwezidalwa ezitofotofo, kubandakanya indawo yokuqubha yangaphakathi enkulu eneglasi engaphambili ejonge izibuko.

Kodwa yayikuMzantsi Greenland, uhambo lwenqwelo-moya lwemizuzu engama-75 ukusuka eNuuk, apho ndayithanda kakhulu iArctic. I-Narsarsuaq, isikhululo seenqwelomoya samazwe ngamazwe kunye nokuhlaliswa kwabantu abamalunga ne-100, yeyona ndawo iphambili yokutsiba kwiilali ezikunxweme olusemazantsi, ummandla okwindawo efanayo ne-Helsinki kunye ne-Anchorage. Amabhodlo amaNorse aneminyaka eliwaka ubudala agqugqisile elunxwemeni, ngakumbi eBrattahlío, apho uEric the Red waqala ukuzinza nalapho unyana wakhe uLeif Eriksson waqalisa ukuhlola uMntla Merika, kwiinkulungwane ezintlanu ngaphambi kweColumbus. I-Brattahlío yaphinda yasekwa ngoo-1920 ngumfama u-Otto Fredriksen njenge-Qassiarsuk, kwaye ukufuya iigusha kwaphinda kwasekwa ngempumelelo.

Iindwendwe zanamhlanje zinokuphonononga icawa eyakhiwe ngokutsha kunye nendlu ende ene-turf, zombini ezakhiwe ngesitayile senkulungwane ye-10. Ukubalisa ibali lokuhlala kwimpahla yaseNordic, u-Edda Lyberth wakhonza isidlo sasemini sase-Inuit setywina elomisiweyo, i-cod kunye nomnenga, i-reindeer ebilisiweyo, i-honeycomb kunye ne-currants emnyama entsha.

Ndifumene itywina, ngakumbi, kunzima isisu, kodwa kuhlala kukutya kokutya kwabaninzi.

Phantsi komfula ulala iQaqortoq, izindlu zayo ezenziwe ngomthi zijinga iinduli ezinqabileyo ezenza umnyama wobuso ujikeleze izibuko eliqaqambileyo.

Le yeyona dolophu inkulu kuMzantsi Greenland, inabemi abangama-3,500, kunye nezibuko layo elingenamkhenkce ebusika. Kabini ngeveki iinqanawa zeenqanawa zenza i-Qaqortoq ibe yindawo yokuhambisa inqanawa. Ukuthunyelwa kumazwe angaphandle: iiprawn ezikhenkcezisiweyo. Inani lezakhiwo ezinomtsalane ze-Qaqortoq zaqala ngeminyaka yoo-1930s, ixesha apho uCharles Lindbergh wadlulayo ngelixa wayekhangela indawo yokumisa i-Atlantiki kwakhona ye-Pan Am. Okumangalisayo kukuba, idolophu esezintabeni isenayo isikhululo seenqwelo-moya—ifikelelwa ngohambo lwenqwelo-ntaka oluyimizuzu engama-20 olunika umdla, olubhabhayo olusezantsi olusuka eNarsarsuaq (khawutsho kaWagner’s “Ride of the Valkyries,” okanye uhambo lweyure ezine ngesikhitshane ehlotyeni.

Iinketho zokulala zaseMazantsi eGreenland zilinganiselwe kwidolophu enye okanye ezimbini, kwaye zisisiseko, kodwa zanele kubahambi behlabathi. Iindawo zokutyela zisebenzisa ukutya kwase-Danish-accented-continental cuisine; ngokumangalisayo i-reindeer emnandi kunye nenkomo ye-musk ihlala kwimenyu, kwaye ngamanye amaxesha inyama yomnenga (iyancipha kakhulu kunokuba ndiyilindele, kodwa iphinde ibe nobutyebi). Ukuhlangabezana neemfuno ezitsha zokhenketho urhulumente unyukela epleyitini ngesikolo sokufundela ukwamkela iindwendwe eNarsaq, apho abakhoyo banokufunda njengabapheki bexesha elizayo, ababhaki, oonosilarha, iiweyitara kunye nabamkeli bedesika ephambi kwehotele.

Imozulu yayilungile ngexesha lokutyelela kwam-isibhakabhaka esicocekileyo esiluhlaza, ukufudumala ngokwaneleyo ukuhamba ngeebhulukhwe ezimfutshane-ukuvumela ukuguquguquka okukhulu ngokubona kwam indawo. Kulula ukujoyina uhambo losuku ngephenyane ukusuka eQaqortoq ukuya e-Upernaviarsuk, isikhululo sophando sezolimo esiziihektare ezimbini ezinesiqingatha apho isityalo sasehlotyeni sasiquka amagqabi, iingcambu kunye nemifuno enqamlezileyo. Ukuqhubela phambili sinyuka i-Einars Fjord safika e-Igaliku, idolophana apho intsalela yabemi baseNorse ingqongwe ziindlwana ezichwayitileyo. Sathi nca kumabhodlo eHvalsey, indawo iGreenlanders ifuna iwonga leUNESCO. Iindonga zamatye zecawe yayo ezaqala ngeminyaka yoo-1100s azichanekanga.

Ngaphambi kokuba ndimke eGreenland, ndadibana nowayesakuba ngumhlobokazi ongumFrentshi uJacky Simoud. Umhlali ukusukela ngo-1976, ungusomashishini e-Narsarsuaq, eqhuba ikhefi yedolophu, ihostele kunye nenkampani yempahla, zonke ziphantsi kwegama elithi Blue Ice. Ukwahamba ngesikhephe ukuya kwiQooroq Fjord ekufuphi, apho umkhenkce ukhupha iitoni ezingama-200,000 zomkhenkce ngosuku.

“Ngomnye weminye emincinane,” watsho uSimoud, eqhuba iphenyane lakhe elirhabaxa kwithafa elineentaba zomkhenkce esingise emazantsi omkhenkce. “Owona mkhulu uvelisa iitoni [zomkhenkce] ezizizigidi ezingama-20 ngosuku.” Wathi akuba eqhube kakuhle kangangoko umkhenkce ogqabhuka umkhenkce ubunokumvumela ngokukhuselekileyo, uSimoud wayivala injini laza elinye labasebenzi bakhe lahambisa i-martinis phezu kwamaqhekeza omkhenkce omtsha. Ngokungathintelekiyo, phakathi kokuzola ngokupheleleyo, incoko yatshintshela kubushushu behlabathi.

USimoud uthi: “Ubusika obulungileyo bubanda. Isibhakabhaka sicacile, ikhephu liqinile kwaye sinokujikeleza i-fjord ngemoto ekhephu okanye imoto. Kodwa ubusika obune bokugqibela kwabahlanu bebushushu. Okanye ukutshintshana kushushu nokubanda.”

Phezulu kwifjord, umkhenkce wawubonakala phakathi kweentaba ngathi yinkungu egqunyiweyo ngoxa iintaba ezisingqongileyo zazibhijela yaye zigqabhuka lilanga. Kuko konke ukugabadela kwayo, ukutyelela iGreenland yayiluhambo olunzima lokuya kwindawo ephumayo yokudibana yesijikelezi-langa sethu sangaphambili kunye nekamva laso.
Andikwazi kuthetha ebusika. Kodwa ndingatsho ukuba ihlobo elihle lihlobo laseGreenland.

Ukuba Uya

IGreenland inezikhululo zeenqwelomoya ezintathu zamazwe ngamazwe. Ukongeza kwiNuuk kunye neNarsarsuaq, kukho iKangerlussuaq, ephakathi kweNuuk kunye ne-Ilulissat (indawo yokungena yokukhenketha iDisko Bay, indawo enkulu yabakhenkethi enomkhenkce omkhulu, ii-icebergs kunye ne-dog-sledding). I-Air Greenland ibhabha kaninzi ngeveki kwizikhululo zeenqwelomoya ukusuka eCopenhagen, unyaka wonke. Ehlotyeni, kukho iinqwelomoya ezivela e-Iceland ukuya eNuuk nakwezinye iindawo e-Icelandair nase-Air Iceland. Ifumaneka ngasekupheleni kukaMeyi ukuya ekuqaleni kukaSeptemba, iindlela ze-Iceland azibizi kangako kunokubhabha ngeCopenhagen, kwaye gcina malunga neeyure ezili-12 ngexesha lokuhamba ukusuka e-US.

Iindwendwe zasehlotyeni zinokuqalisa ukuhamba, i-kayaking kunye ne-fjord cruises; Ukuloba iitrout kunye nesalmon kuthiwa kubalaseleyo. Ebusika, i-dog-sledding, i-snowmobiling kunye ne-skiing phezulu kuluhlu lwemisebenzi, ehlala ibekwe ngasemva kwezibane ezisemantla. Uninzi lwabakhenkethi, njengeScantours, bapakisha ihotele kunye nemali yenqwelomoya kodwa bathengisa ukhenketho lwemini ngela carte ngokusekwe kwimeko yemozulu. Uhambo lweentsuku ezisibhozo zeScantours ukuya eNarsarsuaq naseNarsaq luxabisa i-$2,972 kuquka umoya osuka e-Iceland, okanye i-$3,768 esuka eCopenhagen. Inkampani kaJacky Simoud edityaniswe kakuhle yeBlue Ice inobuchule bokuhlanganisa abakhenkethi kunye neepakethi ezisuka kwindawo yakhe eNarsarsuaq.

Ngenxa yeendleko eziphezulu zokusuka kwidolophu ngedolophu yaseGreenland—uninzi lwazo olufikelelwa kuphela ngehelikopta okanye ngesikhephe—iinqanawa zokuhamba ngenqanawa zinokuba yindlela echubekileyo yokukhenketha. Inkampani ephambili ebonelela ngeendlela zaseGreenland yiHurtigruten. Uhambo ngenqanawa lweentsuku ezisibhozo ehlotyeni lika-2010 luqala ngaphezulu nje kwe-$4500 ukuba lubhukishwe nge-30 kaSeptemba.

UDavid Swanson nguMhleli oNcedisayo kuMhambi weSizwe weJografi kwaye ubhala ikholamu "yeCaribbean engabizi kakhulu" kwimagazini yeCaribbean Travel & Life.