Ngentsasa ebandayo kule ndawo imangalisayo neyakha yangasese, abakhenkethi baseYurophu abanobhaka kunye nabakhenkethi abanezithende baseMelika baye babeka phantsi izithuba zabo zokudubula.
Uthotho lweekhamera ezidanyazayo, ezishukumayo kunye neekhamera zevidiyo ziqalwa ngalo mzuzu iimonki zamaBhuda zihamba zinganxibanga zihlangu kwiimonki zazo kwisithethe esizolileyo nesingenaxesha. Ukutyhubela phambili kugqabhuka kumgca weengubo ezibugolide-mthubi, kwaye phantse ukunyathela ngamadolo amabhinqa aseLao enika ukutya kwiimonki.
Kamva kwangaloo mini, inkosana yelo komkhulu langaphambili izama ukulondoloza ilifa lenkcubeko yedolophu yakowabo, yakhalaza isithi: “Kubakhenkethi abaninzi, ukuza eLuang Prabang kufana nokuhamba uhambo, kodwa iimonki zethu azizonkawu okanye inyathi.”
Imi nzulu kwintlambo yoMlambo iMekong, enqanyulwe kuninzi lwehlabathi yiMfazwe yaseVietnam, iLuang Prabang yayahluke kakhulu xa ndandiqala ukuyibona ngowe-1974.
Ukuqhekeka emaphethelweni, ewe, kodwa kusekudityaniswa komlingo kweendawo zokuhlala zaseLao, ulwakhiwo lobukoloniyali baseFransi kunye nezindlu zoonongendi ezithandekayo ezingaphezu kwama-30, ezinye ziqala ngenkulungwane ye-14. Yayingeyiyo imyuziyam, kodwa yayiluluntu olumanyeneyo, oluyinyani, oluphilayo.
Ukukhawuleza ukuya ku-2008: Uninzi lweentsapho ezindala ziye zahamba, zathengisa okanye zaqeshisa amakhaya abo kubantu bangaphandle abazizityebi abaye bawaguqula ayindawo yeendwendwe, iikhefi ze-Intanethi kunye neepari zepizza. Zimbalwa iimonki kuba aba bafikayo abasazixhasi iimonki. Yaye ukuthontelana kwabakhenkethi kusanda, idolophu eethe-ethe yabantu abangama-25,000 300,000 ngoku ithabatha abamalunga nama-XNUMX XNUMX kubo ngonyaka.
Kulo lonke elaseLaos, ukhenketho lwaluyi-36.5 yeepesenti ezimangalisayo kwi-2007, xa kuthelekiswa ne-2006, kunye neendwendwe ezingaphezu kwe-1.3 yezigidi kwiinyanga zokuqala ze-10 zonyaka, ngokutsho kwe-Pacific Asia Travel Association.
Ixesha elithile lidlulile ukususela ekusingiseni kwiindlela ezinkulu zaseAsia - eHong Kong, eSingapore, eBangkok kunye nabanye - okokuqala bathatha oku kuthontelana, nkqu, ngokumangalisayo, njengoko bebulldozed kunye nesibhakabhaka phezu komlingiswa, umoya kunye nembali etsale iindwendwe. inqwelo moya enkulu.
Ngoku, lithuba leendawo ezazikhe zahlulwa lungquzulwano, ngoorhulumente abanobutshaba kunye nejografi “engekho sendleleni” apho kuphela abahambi abakhaliphileyo bathe bafika ngaphambili.
Kwaye njengoko amatye anqabileyo okugqibela aseAsia, omnye emva komnye, enikezela kwimpembelelo yokhenketho, kukho intlungu yokwenene entliziyweni yam, kunye nomona wokuzingca njengothando umntu ngoku kufuneka abelane nabaninzi.
“ISiem Reap isenokuba lelinye lawona mabala ambalwa asabambelele kwintsalela yeKhambodiya yakudala, ngaphambi kwemfazwe, ngaphambi kokubulawa kwabantu,” ndabhala kwincwadi yam yeziganeko zemihla ngemihla ngowe-1980, ndibuyela kule dolophu ekumntla-ntshona weKhambodiya kwiinyanga nje ezimbalwa emva kokuwa kweKhambodiya. isigebenga iKhmer Rouge.
Ukuhlatywa kwabantu bekumanyumnyezi, kodwa uSiem Reap ngokwakhe wanyamezela, isikali sakhe esincinci, esingenabugocigoci, imarike yakudala yaseFransi, ubume bobugcisa obufanele uluntu kumda wezona ndalo zinkulu zaseKhambodiya, iitempile zamandulo zase-Angkor.
E-Angkor Wat, isibini esidala esingenamali sanikezela ngejusi eshushu yeswekile yesundu esuka kwikomityi ye-bamboo njengoko amajoni ambalwa ayendikhapha, umkhenkethi okuphela kwakhe, ukutyhubela amagumbi amangalisayo eyona tempile ibalaseleyo kubo bonke.
Kutyelelo lwakutsha nje e-Siem Reap, ndiye ndadibana nendawo exakekileyo, evuthelwa luthuli. Iihotele ezinamagumbi amaninzi aneefestile zeglasi zithe saa elunxwemeni loMlambo i-Siem Reap owonqenayo, apho amanzi amdaka aphuma kumkhosi wezindlu zeendwendwe. Imarike yaba nemivalo ngaphezulu block ngaphezu Las Vegas.
Abo bonzakeleyo ngokwasemoyeni ngoku banokubhukisha iiseshini zokuphilisa umntu ngamnye kwiindawo zokurhoxa ezinobunewunewu kunye “nabaqeqeshi bobomi” ababhabha bevela eUnited States, kunye nesisu “seAngkorean” esonga igqabi lelotus kunye nerayisi eshushu.
Abangaba ngamagorha, bephantsi ngokudinwa kwetempile, babephosa iziqhushumbisi zezandla kwaye bedubula imipu yohlaselo nge-30 yeedola ngokugqabhuka kudederhu loMkhosi wokudubula. IPhokeethra Royal Angkor Golf and Spa Resort, eqhayisa ngebhulorho yenkulungwane ye-11 phakathi kwemingxuma ye-9 neye-10, yazisa “umdlalo wamanene kuMmangaliso Wesibhozo Wehlabathi.”
Indlela eziikhilomitha ezintandathu ukusuka e-Siem Reap ukuya kuloo mmangaliso, yakha yaba yindledlana ezolileyo enemithi emide, yenza iqela leehotele kunye neendawo zokuthenga ezimbi, ezifana ne-mall-ininzi yazo yaphula imithetho yezowuni.
Ngorhatya lwam lokugqibela, bendicinga ukuba bekuqhutywa iGrand Prix. Abahambi abancinci babehlanganisene kumatheko e-sundowner ngelixa iibhasi zihambisa abakhenkethi baseTshayina kwindlela enkulu yase-Angkor Wat, egcwele umsi onyukayo.
Mhlawumbi amaqela eepakethe kunye nabakhenkethi abaphezulu, kunye neemfuno zabo zogcino oluphezulu, bashiya unyawo olukhulu kunabapakishi. Kodwa e-Asiya, abapakishi basebenze njengamaqela aphinde ajongane neshishini, bangena kwiindawo ezisemaphandleni ukuze benze ikoloniyali iindawo ezintle kwaye bavule indlela yabahambi abaphezulu. Isekethe ye-pancake yebhanana ibizwa ngokuba, emva kwesinye sezona zinto ziyimfuneko.
Thatha iPai, ilali engene kwintlambo ebanzi, erhangqwe yintaba kumantla eThailand. Yayifudula iyindawo enkulu yokubalekela kwihlabathi elilula, elingaqhelekanga, elineendawo zokuhlala zezizwe ezithe saa ezintabeni, de kwavela isizwe esifudukayo sehlabathi lonke, sitsala inkcubeko yaso.
Izindlu zabakhenkethi nge-bamboo kunye nengca ziwola umlambo iPai ojikelezayo ukuya kuthi ga apho unokubona khona, zigquma amasimi erayisi kwaye zinyuka iinduli kunxweme lwasekhohlo. Kwibhanki ekunene, iindawo zokungcebeleka ezinexabiso eliphezulu ziye zaqalisa ukuba ngamakhowa.
Umtya omfutshane ophakathi edolophini uxinene ngeApple Pai kunye nezinye iikhefi ze-Intanethi ezilithoba, iividiyo kunye neepareji zetattoo, iibhari, iiklasi zeyoga kunye nokupheka, iivenkile ezininzi zeetrinket kunye nevenkile yokutya eneebheji kunye nekhrimu yetshizi.
Kukho nephephandaba lesiNgesi, elipapashwe nguJoe Cummings, umbhali wezo Bhayibhile zokuhamba ngokukhawuleza, izikhokelo zeLonely Planet, mhlawumbi zenza ngaphezu kwayo nantoni na ukubeka uPai kwisekethe. Kwiphupha elibi lemini, ndiyamgweba uJoe ukuba angatyi nto ngaphandle kweepancakes zebhanana kunye nokufaka ubhaka ongama-500 eeponti kuwo onke amaphakade.
Kwanabo baphila ngokhenketho bakhala ngokukhula.
“Iphuhliswe kakhulu ngoku. Ikhonkrithi eninzi kakhulu kuyo yonke indawo, izindlu ezininzi zeendwendwe,” utshilo uWatcharee Boonyathammaraksa, owathi, xa ndandiqala ukudibana naye ngo-1999, wayesandula ukubaleka ilizwe lentengiso laseBangkok ukuze aqalise ikhefi, All About Coffee, kwindawo ekukuphela kwezindlu zakudala zamaplanga. ushiye edolophini.
U-Luang Prabang wenze ngcono ngokungachithi ixesha elidlulileyo. IUNESCO iye yabeka iliso elibukhali emva kokuyichaza njengeNdawo Eyeyona NONE
Sekunjalo, owayesakuba yingcaphephe nomhlali weUNESCO, uFrancis Engelmann, uthi: “Sizigcinile izakhiwo zaseLuang Prabang, kodwa siphulukene nomphefumlo.”
Uluntu lwemveli luyaphela ngenxa yokhenketho, kunye nabo bathatha iindawo zokuhlala ezidala benomdla kwingeniso kunokuxhasa izindlu zoonongendi, ezikhoyo ubukhulu becala kwiminikelo yabathembekileyo.
Enye imonki, u-Engelmann uthi, sele ivaliwe kwaye ii-abbots zabanye zikhalaza ukuba abakhenkethi bangena bengamenywanga kwiindawo zabo zokuhlala ukuze bathathe iifoto “empumlweni zabo” ngelixa befunda okanye becamngca.
Abefundisi abakhulu banika ingxelo yeziyobisi, ngokwesondo kunye nolwaphulo-mthetho oluncinci, olwalukade lungaziwa, phakathi kwabaqalayo abancinci njengoko kurhwetywa kumazwe angaphandle kunye neentengiso zijikeleza kumasango etempile.
"Izinzile, isimilo, i-eco-tourism" - amagosa abakhenkethi eLaos nakwezinye iindawo zase-Asiya acula la mantras anefashoni. Kodwa izicwangciso zabo zokusebenza zityhala "ngaphezulu, ngaphezulu, ngaphezulu."
Akukho nto iphosa oorhulumente bommandla kunye nabathengisi kwi-funk enzulu kunokwehla kwabafikayo ngenxa yetsunami okanye ukuqhambuka komkhuhlane weentaka.
ELuang Prabang, ngokubalwa ngokusemthethweni, ngaphezu kwe-160 yeendwendwe kunye neehotele sele zishishine, kunye namaTshayina namaKorea aceba ezinye ezinkulu ngokwenene kurhwebo lwehoseyile.
Ngakwibloko ende yeSisavangvong Road, kumbindi wedolophu endala, sonke isakhiwo sibonelela abakhi-ndawo ngendlela ethile okanye enye. Olunjani ulonwabo ekugqibeleni ukufumanisa enye engenziyo, nokuba yindlu enye yeLuang Prabang yePhondo leManyano yaBasebenzi. Indoda ebhityileyo, endala, enganxibanga zihlangu kwaye inxibe kuphela i-sarong eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, yayiza kuba yinto eqhelekileyo kwiminyaka embalwa edlulileyo. Ngoku, njengoko etshixiza enqumla eSisavangvong, phakathi kweebhutsi zokuhamba kunye neepaki ezintle, ubonakala njengomntu wasemzini kwidolophu yakhe.
Kufuphi, kwiNdlu yeNkcubeko yasePuang Champ, umhlobo wam uNkosana uNithakhong Tiaoksomsanith unethemba lokuba ngandlela ithile uza kuba ngumjelo wenkcubeko yeLao yokwenyani phakathi kwesizukulwana sehlabathi kunye nesidlulayo.
Indlu yakhe yamaplanga yemveli, exhonywe phezu kwezinti, isebenza njengeziko apho iinkosi zakudala zifundisa umculo, ukudanisa, ukupheka, ukuhombisa ngemisonto yegolide kunye nobunye ubugcisa.
Oku, uNithakhong uthi, kunokunceda ukuthintela ikamva likaLuang Prabang: "Disneyland."
Ngoko ke, ngorhatya lwasemva kwemini, abakwishumi elivisayo abane bekhokelwa yimvumi eyayikhe yacula kwibhotwe lasebukhosini, bayaqhelisela. Kwimitya kunye ne-percussion, badlala iLao Full Moon, ingoma elusizi, yothando.
Kodwa nale khompawundi yabucala isesichengeni. Njengoko ulutsha ludlala, umkhenkethi uzama ukungena. Yaye ngubani lo ungaphaya kodonga, olule iintamo zabo?
Abakhenkethi abaninzi, becofa iikhamera ngesandla.
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