Umyili wefashoni uhlala eyindlu yamandla yoyilo

UJean Paul Gaultier akazijongi yena. Akukho top yaseBreton, akukho kilt okanye iibhutsi zomkhosi. Kwaye isityalo sebleach-blond sele singwevu ngoku.

UJean Paul Gaultier akazijongi yena. Akukho top yaseBreton, akukho kilt okanye iibhutsi zomkhosi. Kwaye isityalo sebleach-blond sele singwevu ngoku. Endaweni yoko, uGaultier, onxibe ihempe emnyama kunye nesuti, ujongeka njengomphathi oyintloko wenkampani yokuyila yebluechip, kwaye enganeno stereotype ephilayo yomyili wefashoni weMad-cap Euro awadlala ngayo ngeminyaka yoo-1980 kunye noo-1990.

Unxiba, eneneni, njengomntu anguye: intloko yohlobo lwefashoni yehlabathi, i-couture house kunye nomdlali wamandla onuka kamnandi. Kuxa ethetha kuphela-ngesivakalisi esinesiFrentshi kuvakala ngathi uyasinxiba, kwaye nangamandla aphikisa usuku lwakhe lokuzalwa oluzayo lwe-60th-athi kusatyhilwa iGaultier yengcinga edumileyo.

“Ndicinga nje ukuba ndinendlela yokuyila bhanyabhanya,” uphendula ngelitshoyo xa ebuzwa ukuba kutheni le nto uninzi lwezoyilo zakhe ziye zaba sisiseko senkcubeko edumileyo, eqondwa nakwabo bangenamdla kwifashoni- amanqwanqwa aphezulu omkhosi waselwandle waseFransi. , I-Parisian-chic ipencil skirts kunye ne-trench-coats, iingubo ze-corset, i-conical bras kunye nengcamango yeengubo zangaphantsi-njenge-outerwear, nganye yazo ingene kwi-fashion vernacular.

“Andikhe ndithathe iifoto xa ndiseluhambeni kodwa ndizama ukufunxa imifanekiso, yaye ihlala nam ixesha elide. Ndakhe ndenza ingqokelela ephefumlelwe yiIndiya, umzekelo, kwaye yayiyiminyaka eyi-10 emva kokuba ndihambe apho. Kwaye kwakungenxa ye-cinema apho ndafumanisa ifashoni kwasekuqaleni. "

Loo ngqondo ifana nesipontshi ibonisa ukuba kutheni uGaultier engomnye wabayili abahlonitshwayo kakhulu kwiminyaka embalwa edlulileyo, onobuchule bokudibanisa izinto eziqhelekileyo kunye nezigwenxa, i-androgynous kunye ne-macho, i-brow ephezulu kunye nokungahloneli, ukuthunga kunye nempahla yesitrato. Nangona kunjalo, ukwangomnye wawona axatyiswayo; kwaye ayilolungelo lilula ukuphumelela phakathi kwe-ego kunye nokuzenzisa kwelizwe lefashoni.

Ukuthetha kwakhe ngokuthe ngqo kuyanceda. Ukhalazela, umzekelo, into yokuba ushicilelo lwefashoni lwanamhlanje – olwalusakuba sisixhobo esibalulekileyo anokuvavanya ngaso ingqokelela yakhe – sisixhobo esichitha imali eninzi. “Yonke le nto iyinxalenye yokuthengisa ngoku,” utsho ecaphukile ngandlel’ ithile. “Ukuba abayithandi impahla yakho abayi kuthetha kuba benezinye izinto eziphambili – intengiso. Kwaye ukuba la maqela makhulu abiza imagazini ngokuthe ngqo - njengoko ndisazi ukuba omnye wenza njalo, engakhankanyi magama - iya kwenza naluphi na utshintsho olucelwayo. ”

Kodwa uGaultier unerekhodi yomkhondo naye. I-CV yakhe iquka ukukhululwa kweengoma zomdaniso; ukusingathwa kochungechunge lukamabonakude (i-Eurotrash, apho wayethe kratya ingcamango yakhe); uyilo lwesinxibo sikaPedro Almodóvar, uPeter Greenaway kunye noLuc Besson; isethi yoyilo-kutsha nje yebhola yasebusika ka-Elton John's Grey Goose; kunye, kude kube leli xesha lonyaka kunye neminyaka esixhenxe edlulileyo, ukuyila iimpahla zabasetyhini zeHermès.

Yayilidinga eliye labona indlu yempahla ephucukileyo ngokudodobala koqoqosho. UHermès, owathenga i-35 pesenti yophawu lukaGaultier ngezigidi ezingama-23 zeedola (i-Dh84.5m) ngo-1999, sele ethenge enye i-10 leepesenti, ngokungathi uyamkela loo nto. Ngoku kuza uvulo lwakutsha nje lweLizwe leFashoni likaJean Paul Gaultier kwiMyuziyam yaseMontreal yoBugcisa obuLungileyo, isishwankathelo esiphambili sekhondo eliza kukhenketha ihlabathi kule minyaka mibini izayo.

Umboniso ugxininisa ukuphela kwexesha. “UHermès yayingamava amnandi, kodwa ukuhamba lithuba elihle kum lokuba ndizame ezinye izinto,” utshilo uGaultier, ebangela ukuba umncedisi wakhe obambekileyo abethe kancinci. Ewe, mhlawumbi hayi izinto ezininzi, kodwa ukwenza izinto endizenza ngcono. UHermès wayethetha ukuyila ezinye ingqokelela ezimbini, ezithetha ezisibhozo zizonke, kubandakanya neyam, kwaye ndisebenza kakhulu. Enyanisweni, ndiyi-control freak. Kodwa kwanolawulo lwe-freaks lufuna indawo ethile. ”

Izinto ezintsha zibandakanya ingqokelela yeLa Perla - okuxakayo, umgca wokuqala weGaultier wempahla yangaphantsi njengempahla yangaphantsi - apho uphawu lwangaphantsi lulindele ukuthengisa ngaphezulu kwamaqhekeza angama-10,000 ngaphezulu kwe-500 yee-euro (Dh2,400) inye.

Kukwathetha ukubuyela kwimo yakudala xa, umzekelo, uGaultier ephazamisa ukusekwa kwefashoni ngokuzimisela ukusebenzisa amadala, amafutshane okanye angaphantsi kweemodeli ezibhityileyo kwimiboniso yakhe ye-catwalk. U-Beth Ditto, umzekelo, ubangele uvakalelo kwi-basque egqunywe yitulle kumboniso wakhe we-prêt-à-porter ngo-Okthobha ophelileyo, ngelixa u-Gaultier ephazamise i-ambience eqhelekileyo ka-Agasti, ecociweyo yemiboniso ye-couture kaJulayi ngokwenza ukuba inkwenkwezi i-burlesque uDita von Teese enze isiphelo.

Ewe, le mvukelo yaphawula isikhumbuzo sikaGaultier kwishishini. Kwakuyiminyaka engama-40 eyadlulayo apho wafumana umsebenzi wakhe wokuqala wokuyila noJean Patou, emtsha emva kokupela njengomncedisi kaPierre Cardin, owathatha umntu oneminyaka eli-18 ubudala ongaqeqeshwanga kodwa onomdla kakhulu ngokusekwe ekujongeni imizobo yakhe (uGaultier wayizobela phantse ngokuziphendulela. ngexesha lonke lokufunda kwakhe, amaxesha amaninzi ebethelelwa emqolo njengendlela yokohlwaya - umlinganiselo, uthi, owawunika nje uhlobo losaziwayo bebala lokudlala).

Ngelishwa, uGaultier wakhawuleza waqonda ukuba ubunyani befashoni yayingenjalo njengoko wayecinga emva xa ubomi bakhe bonke (ngamazwi akhe) kunye nempahla yesiFrentshi yobuntwaneni bakhe yaqala. Ukubola kwakusele kuqalile. Ukhumbula ukuba wayebekwe ekoneni ngumlawuli welayisenisi kaPatou kwaye ngokufanelekileyo waxelelwa ukuba akope uyilo oludumileyo lwesiketi ngomnye uphawu.

UGaultier uthi: “Yaye ndandixhelekile. “Kutheni uthenga kuPatou xa impahla sele ikhona? Inceda ngantoni? Kuya kufuneka ucebise into ethile, hayi nje ukuthengisa into ethile. Ukuba ndenza nantoni na ndizama ukuyenza ngokwahlukileyo.”

Kwaye ngaba ishishini lefashoni linobuchule njengoko lalinjalo ngaphambili? “Akunjalo,” utsho uGaultier. “Akukho simbo, kwanto endinokuyibiza ngefashoni. Mhlawumbi akusekho mfuneko yefashoni. Mhlawumbi iya kubuya kuba kusekho abantu abafuna ukuchasana naloo nto banayo. Kodwa ngoku, ukuze umntu andixelele ukuba kufuneka ndenze ibhulukhwe ngendlela ethile kuba yiyo ethengiswayo, into eyenzekayo kakhulu kwi-industry, andinamdla waloo nto. Oko asikokuba nemvukelo kodwa kungenxa yokuba ndithanda umahluko.”

Umahluko, ukuba ungaphezulu kwesibheno ngoku, ubonakalise iplani eyimpumelelo yeGaultier. Kwamcenga, umzekelo, ukuba asungule umgca wakhe weJunior xa imbono yexabiso lempahla yokuyila kwimarike yolutsha yayisengaphandle. Waphuma emlenzeni ngokudala umgca wokuqala wezithambiso zamadoda, enye kuphela ngoku ixeliswa ngeempawu ezinkulu. Kwaye impumlo yakhe yangaphandle yeGallic imsebenzele kakuhle kakhulu: iminyaka eyi-15 emva kokusungulwa kwayo, ivumba lakhe lamadoda uLe Male uhlala engoyena mthengisi ugqwesileyo we-EU (ivumba elitsha lamadoda liza kuqaliswa kamva kulo nyaka), ngelixa ibhotile yeClassique, enye yezakhe. Iziqholo zamva nje zabasetyhini, zithengisa kwindawo ethile rhoqo ngemizuzwana eyi-15.

Kodwa ithuba lokusaba kurhwebo uye kwihlabathi lobuchule obusulungekileyo mhlawumbi sisizathu sokuba ahlale ezinikele kumgca we-couture awawusungula ngo-1997, ngaphandle kokuba i-couture ibe lishishini elisehla ngokuzinzileyo iminyaka ngoku, kunye no-Gaultier ngokukrakra ngexesha apho. IParis iyodwa yayinezindlu ezingama-30 eziqeshe abantu abangaphezu kwama-2,000 100. Yinxalenye yeshishini lakhe, apho avumayo, akenzi mali, kodwa apho, wongeza, akathumeli ilahleko. Kula maxesha angaphantsi - ngaphambili, njengoko ebeka, "amaqela amakhulu efashoni afika ekulawuleni izinto" - oko kunganelanga. Kodwa ngokuzimeleyo njengoko injalo uGaultier, abathengi bakhe abaqhelekileyo abali-100,000, elowo enokuthi aodole nje ilokhwe enye okanye ezimbini nge-euro ezili-XNUMX inye, banele kuye.

“Mhlawumbi kuyanceda ekuthengiseni iziqholo ezithile,” uyacebisa, nokuba kunokwenzeka ukuba ukuthengisa kwakhe iziqholo kumvumela ukuba aqhubeke necouture. Kodwa kanye njengokuba abanye abantu bethenga indlu ngemali yabo, okanye isikhephe esincinane, ndenza i-couture kuba leyo yinto ebendinqwenela ukuyenza ukususela ebuntwaneni. I-Couture kufuneka iqhubeke, mhlawumbi ngendlela eyahlukileyo, kodwa yilabhoratri ebalulekileyo. Kuyavuyisa xa ndifumana umbono. Kwaye xa ndingenzi njalo kuba ngathi – urrgghh.

“Kwaye kuyinyani ukuba andizazi iilokhwe zabanye abantu abadala, ababanzi, ukuba bayilwe kwimannequin,” wongeza, esokola ukuba angayihleki into yakhe yokuba yi-catiness. Kodwa kwezi ntsuku abathengi abaninzi be-couture bancinci kwaye bancinci kakhulu. Kuyacaca ukuba abatyi kakhulu kwaye baya ejimini kakhulu. Kodwa andikhathali nangayiphi na indlela. Noko nge couture uyayazi ukuba xa wenzela umfazi ilokhwe uzoyinxiba. Awukwazi ukuthetha oko malunga nehlabathi lefashoni ngokubanzi kule mihla. Sele kukho iimpahla ezininzi phaya ngaphandle kunokuba kukho abantu abaza kuzinxiba.”

Ewe kunjalo, uGaultier uye wahamba ngandlel’ ithile ukwenza loo nto. Kaloku ebesenza iimpahla oko ebengekaphumi nanapkeni. Ngaba uMadonna uyazi ukuba ibra yakhe ye-conical yenziwa kuqala ngephepha kunye nezikhonkwane zokhuseleko - kwi-teddy bear?

“Ah Nana,” udanduluka uGaultier, ngokungathi ukhumbula imyuziyam yakhe yokwenyani, ayichaza njenge “punkish kakhulu”.

“Ewe, ibiyinkangeleko ecaphukisayo kancinane ye-teddy bear, ngenene. Kwaye, hayi, andiqondi ukuba [uMadonna] uyayazi loo nto. ”

Malunga nombhali

IAvatar kaLinda Hohnholz

Linda Hohnholz

Umhleli oyintloko we eTurboNews esekwe kwi-eTN HQ.

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