Kwinduli engaphandle kweYerevan, ikomkhulu laseArmenia, kukho umfanekiso omnyama nomhlophe wendoda eneminyaka engama-24 ubudala. Udutyulwe entloko namagxa, unxibe iyunifomu yomkhosi, unamashiya ashinyeneyo, impumlo ebanzi kunye neendlebe ezincinci zecauliflower. Ineenkcukacha kakhulu ifoto kangangokuba nokuba ukugoba kweapile lika-Adam kucacile.
Ujonga kude kancinane kwilensi yekhamera, inkangeleko ebonisa ukucaphuka ukuba umkhosi umnyanzele ukuba athathe umfanekiso wakhe. Engcwabeni lakhe kulele iintyatyambo ezimbini ezomisiweyo ezityheli.
Uninzi lwamakhulu amatye entloko kumangcwaba aseYerablur anombhalo wokuzala wobuso bomfi kubo. Apha kulele amaxhoba aseArmenia eMfazwe yaseNagorno-Karabakh, eyaqhubeka iminyaka emithandathu ukuya kutsho kowe-1994, xa kwafikelelwa kwisigqibo esingekho mthethweni sokuyekisa imfazwe.
IArmenia kunye nommelwane wayo osempuma, iAzerbaijan, ngokwezobuchwepheshe basemfazweni malunga nommandla weNagorno-Karabakh. Okona kubaluleke kakhulu, utshaba lwakudala lwaseArmenia ngasentshona, iTurkey, yaxhasa iAzerbaijan kwaye yavala umda wayo ongama-330km (iikhilomitha ezingama-205) kunye nelizwe elivaliweyo. Ekugqibeleni, ngo-Okthobha, kuye kwenziwa inkqubela yokwenene kwintsebenziswano yezoqoqosho neyozakuzo phakathi kwamazwe, ngokutyikitywa kwemigaqo eza kuvula umda omnye.
Intloko phakathi kwamabhongo ezoqoqosho kurhulumente wase-Armenia kwisivumelwano saseTurkey kukukhulisa ishishini lokhenketho elikhulayo. UMphathiswa wezoQoqosho uqikelela ukuba abakhenkethi abangama-422,500 batyelele ilizwe kwiinyanga ezisithoba zokuqala kulo nyaka, benyuka ngeepesenti ezintlanu ngexesha elinye ngo-2008, kwaye banethemba lokunyuka eli nani ngakumbi ngemida ezinzileyo.
I-Armenia ibhengeze ngokuphandle abakhenkethi abanokubakho: ngoSeptemba ilizwe libhiyozele uSuku loKhenketho lwaMazwe ngaMazwe lokuqala, ngelixa ekuqaleni kwalo nyaka i-visa yokungena kwisikhululo seenqwelomoya iYerevan's Zvartnots International yacuthwa ngeepesenti ezingama-80 ukuya kwi-3,000 yeedram, malunga needola ezisibhozo (i-8 yeedola). Noko ke, ekubeni ndandingenayo nayiphi na imali yasekuhlaleni, ndahlawuliswa i-4.75 leerandi.
Ukubuyela emangcwabeni, indoda ebomvu kakhulu igcina amangcwaba (abasebenzi bekhola eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka bathanda ukuba mnyama kuneeklasi ezityebileyo eYerevan) undixhawula isandla, ngokungathi siye sabelana ngobunzima obuqhelekileyo, nto leyo endenza ndizibuze ukuba abantu bajongela phantsi utyhalo lokhenketho ngokuma kwabo kakhulu ngokuchasene neTurkey.
Kamva, omnye iweyitala wandixelela oku: “Uninzi lucinga ukuba ezi migaqo azilunganga, ama-60 okanye ama-70 ekhulwini anomsindo kakhulu. Bacinga ukuba siya kuzilibala [izinto ezidluleyo].”
Uninzi lwezinto ezikhangayo ezinkulu zeYerevan zifanekisela umsindo wayo kwilizwe namhlanje elilawula ngaphezulu kwe-60 pesenti yembali yaseArmenia. Elijongene nombindi weYerevan, ome okweqonga lemidlalo yeqonga njengoko umphakamo wesixeko usuka kwi-900m (2,900ft) ukuya kwi-1,300m ngaphezu komphakamo wolwandle, nguMama waseArmenia (umfanekiso ongaphandle). Yakhiwa ngo-1967, uMama waseArmenia umi malunga ne-21m ukuphakama kwaye uhleli kwindawo eyi-43 yeemitha ubude eyakha yenza isiseko somfanekiso oqingqiweyo kaStalin. Ujonga iNtaba yeArarati, ngoku ekummandla waseTurkey, ngokudabukisayo osithwe ngumsi ngosuku endatyelela ngalo ngo-Okthobha oshushu ngendlela engaqhelekanga, engenamvula.
Kwisandla sasekunene sikaMama waseArmenia kukho ikrele, elithotywe ngoko libaleka phambi kwesisu sakhe. Umgama womfanekiso womzimba kunye nesixhobo wenza umnqamlezo, ufanele ilizwe elaba lelokuqala ukwamkela ubuKristu njengonqulo lwalo. Phambi kwalo mfanekiso, ubhalwe ngoonobumba baseArmenia abaneminyaka eli-1,700 XNUMX ubudala, kukho amagama athi “Asilazi igama lakho, kodwa inkalipho yakho ayinakufa”.
UElya, umkhenkethisi wam osuka kumaphondo asemantla elo lizwe uthi: “Ulungele ukuphakamisa ikrele lakhe ukuze akhusele oonyana bakhe. "Kuyoyikisa iTurkey." Uthi le nxalenye yokugqibela ngentsini, kodwa kukho ubuzaza emva joke.
U-Elya uzichaza "njengomArmenian oqhelekileyo - oko kuthetha ukuthanda izwe". Uthi, abantu baseArmenia bebesoloko besengozini “yokupheliswa kulo mhlaba”. UElya ucaphula amazwi enye yeenkokeli eziselula zaseTurk zentsalela yoBukhosi baseOttoman ekuqaleni kwenkulungwane edluleyo: “Mnye kuphela umArmenian’ omele ugcinwe ehlabathini, yaye lowo njengomboniso kwimyuziyam.”
Le ngxelo imbi iphinda-phinda entlokweni yam njengoko ndisuka eYerevan, kwithafa elikumntla-mpuma, ndisiya kwinduli esentshona, apho kukho iSikhumbuzo neMyuziyam yeGenocide. Apha, abantu baseArmenia babeka isikhalazo sabo esikhulu nxamnye neTurkey. Imyuziyam, eqingqwe emhlabeni njengendlu engaphantsi komhlaba, inika iinkcukacha ngendyikityha yendyikityha ye-1.5m yama-Armenian liqela elinobuzwe eligqithisileyo lamaTurks aselula.
Ngenxa yengxwabangxwaba yenkcubeko nonqulo, ngokuqhelekileyo kuthiwa ukubulawa kohlanga kwaqalisa ngowe-1915 emva kokwahlukana kweenkolelo zama-Armenia kwiMfazwe Yehlabathi Yokuqala. Isalathiso esithetha isiNgesi ngokutyibilikayo kule myuziyam sindibonisa imiboniso ephathelele abemi baseArmenia abaphumelele iimbasa zeOlimpiki kwiiOttomans ngowe-1912, kwaza emva koko kwanemifanekiso eyoyikekayo yabantu belizwe labo bexhonywa kobo bukhosi baseAleppo kwiminyaka emine kamva. Kukho izibhengezo ezigxeka ukutshatyalaliswa kohlanga kwiinkokeli zamazwe ngamazwe, kuquka neleta yamva nje evela kwirhuluneli yaseCalifornia uArnold Schwarzenegger.
I-Turkey iyayikhanyela inguqulelo ye-Armenia yeziganeko, kwaye yile nto eyahlula iYerevan namhlanje. Ngaphandle kokuba iTurkey iyakuvuma oku kutshatyalaliswa kohlanga, abantu abaninzi baseArmenia abafuni kutyikitya nasiphi na isivumelwano notshaba lwabo lwakudala. Okubangela umdla kukuba, isikhokelo semyuziyam asiyithathi le mbono. Ithi: “Kuyinto eqhelekileyo ukuba abamelwane babe nolwalamano oluhle ehlabathini lonke.
Ndenza indlela eya kwiziko, ndikhangela amava amnandi. Sesona sixeko sikhulu sicocekile ndakha ndasibona, sihlanjwa kwaye sicocwa qho kusasa. Oku kuninzi kokubonisa - umbono ovela kwiBhulorho yaseVictory, enqumla umlambo iHradzan, iveza amatyotyombe afulelwe ngamazinki kwindawo engekude kakhulu.
Nangona kunjalo, iziko kulapho uninzi lweendawo zokutyela kunye neebhari. Kwaye liphupha lomcwangcisi wedolophu. Kukho igridi yendlela eyahlukileyo eyahlulahlula kakuhle isixeko sibe ziziqwengana ezinokuhamba ngokulula, sijikelezwe ngesangqa sebhanti eluhlaza. Kukho imithombo kuyo yonke indawo, akukho mithontsi ichukumisayo kunaleyo iphambi kweMyuziyam yeSizwe kwi-extravaganza yolwakhiwo eyiRepublic Square, enezakhiwo zayo ezinkulu, ezintle ezakhiwa phakathi kweminyaka yee-1920 kunye nee-1950. Yonke imihla, emva nje kwentsimbi yesi-8pm, imithombo yemyuziyam ikhanyiselwa ngeeblues, ezibomvu kunye neluhlaza, kunye nomdaniso kumanqaku omculo weklasikhi.
Ixesha lesidlo sangokuhlwa, kwaye ndibeka umngcipheko kwi-veal tjvjik, isitya esingahlambulukanga esibandakanya intliziyo nemiphunga, kwindawo yokutyela yaseCaucasus. Okumangalisayo kukuba, yincasa egqithisileyo yetswele eyonakalisa ukutya. Ezinye izitya ziqhelekile ukuba mnandi, ukusuka kwibarbecue yehagu elula kodwa eqhele ukuqholwa kakuhle, ukuya kwikyalagyosh, umxube wepapa esingenagwele wesonka esingenagwele, inyama yenkomo, iyogathi kunye negalikhi enesiqholo kunye nelentile.
Iindawo zokutyela zinomsi omncinci, ngenxa yento ebonakala ngathi yinto yokuzonwabisa yesizwe yokuphefumla icuba, kodwa azibizi. Umzekelo, iLali yethu, enconyelwa kakhulu ngumntu wasekhaya kwaye isentliziyweni yexabiso lendawo yomgibe wabakhenkethi ejikeleze i-Opera House ebekekileyo, ifika ngaphezulu kwe-30 yeedola kwisidlo sababini, kubandakanya abaqalayo, iikhosi eziphambili, iibhiya kunye nevodkas enencasa enamandla ngokungaqhelekanga. Bonganyelwe yivodka kwaye bengachukunyiswanga yibhiya ngokubanzi - uninzi lwabahlali bakhetha iKilikia, enamanzi kwaye ibland lager njengoko amandla ayo epesenti ezi-3.8 enokucebisa - ndithathwa kakhulu yibranti yaseArarati egqwesileyo.
UMarspet, umqhubi weteksi, uyishwankathela kakuhle njengoko siqhuba sidlula kwikomkhulu lale nkampani nophawu lwayo olukhulu olutyheli lweArarati. “Kuhle kakhulu,” watsho endinika oobhontsi kunye negrin ebanzi yeemolars ezinecape yegolide. Ubuhlobo obunjalo bufana neYerevan. Abantu banomtsalane kakhulu kwaye banxibe kakuhle, bajonga yonke into eqhelekileyo yamadoda kunye namakhwenkwe amancinci anxibe iisuti ezimhlophe zeMiami. Nangona kunjalo, i-homogeneity yoluntu-ipesenti ze-98 zoluntu lwase-Armenia luyimveli-lunecala elicacileyo. Kwenye ivenkile yokutyela, indoda engumFrentshi eyinzalelwane yaseAfrika yagqabaza xa ibuzwa kwaloo mbuzo ufanayo ngoko kubonakala kuye kangangezihlandlo ezilikhulu: “Kubalulekile ukuba ndivela phi?” Nabani na ongekho mhlophe kunye neenwele ezimnyama uya kugqama umgama weemayile apha. Mhlawumbi ukhenketho oluninzi luya kuyitshintsha loo nto.
Ndindwendwela isithili sase-Erebuni kumazantsi-ntshona esixeko. Yilapho iYerevan yasungulwa khona kwi-78BC - iminyaka engama-29 ngaphambi kweRoma. Ndizulazula kumabhodlo eNqaba yase-Erebuni, eyayibizwa ngokuba “yiNqaba Yegazi” ngenxa yenani leetulip ezibomvu ezikhula kule nduli. Igraffiti kwiindonga eziseleyo apha inothando kakhulu ngemigangatho yasentshona, ngeentliziyo ezinkulu kunye negama elithi "kiss".
Ukukhusela umntu ohloniphekileyo waphesheya ojonga amabhodlo ngamalungu omkhosi, inkonzo yeminyaka emibini enyanzelekileyo kumadoda ngaphandle kokuba afundela iPhD okanye alungiselela ubomi benkolo kwisikolo sabefundisi. Ayingomsebenzi unzima: bayahleka kwaye bancwasa umkhenkethi wam uElya, ngelixa umbono ongaqhelekanga weArarati uphinda ubonakale elundini. Umntu oneminyaka engama-24 ubudala olele emangcwabeni aseYerablur unokuba ngama-40 namhlanje. Njengoko kumile, la madoda akayi kubelana ngekamva lakhe. Mhlawumbi lixesha lokuhamba. Ungalibali, kodwa uqhubeke.
INDLELA YOKUFAKA
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