UFaisal al Yafai uhambela eAndalucia ukuya kukhangela ilifa lamaSilamsi aseArabhi nakumantla eAfrika alawula lo mmandla iminyaka engama-800.
Le yindawo yokuza amarhe. Phezulu ngaphezu kwesixeko, abafazi abaneminyaka ephakathi kwiilokhwe zasehlotyeni bahamba njengamaqamza asepha, begilana kwaye badibanisa izandla, okanye betsibela kumacala ahlukeneyo. Imarike yonke yintlaninge yenyama enyameni: izandla zibamba ezinye izandla, iingqiniba, iingalo; iminwe iphulula isiqhamo ngokucingisisayo.
Kuya kufuneka ndize eGranada ukuze ndibone okushiyekileyo kweAl Andalus, elo xesha likhulu lembali yase-Iberia xa amaSilamsi ayelawula usingasiqithi. Imarike yasekuseni e-Plaza Larga kwikota yembali yamaSilamsi yase-Albayzin yibhuloho ecacileyo kwixesha elidlulileyo: elingatshintshiyo ngamakhulu eminyaka, ikhonkco ukusuka kuloo mzuzu ukuya kule.
Kulapho ngenkulungwane ye-15 abahlali ababengamaSilamsi ngoko babengamaSilamsi beza kurhweba ngeempahla kunye nokuhleba. Kulapho bamele ukuba beva khona amarhe okufika kwemikhosi yooKumkani bamaKatolika uIsabella noFerdinand. Kwaye kulapho apho amaSilamsi kunye namaJuda ebenokuhamba emva kokuwa kweGranada ngo-1492, abalekela kumazwe akhuselekileyo kuMntla Afrika okanye eYurophu.
Lo mboniso uyangxola, kodwa abathengisi bayandigxotha: bayabona ukuba andingowalapha, ukuba andizifuni iitumato zabo, iimpahla zabo okanye incoko yabo. Endaweni yoko sijongana ngeekona zamehlo ethu.
Indoda esele ikhulile, enxibe iislippers nephethe ibrifkheyisi, ihlala ecaleni kwam ize inike umdiza. Ulatha njengoko isihlwele sithatha umfazi wakhe kwaye sithetha ngotyelelo lwam. Ucinga ukuba ndiphulukene neqela lam labakhenkethi. Ndimxelela ukuba ndikhangele into eseleyo ye-Al Andalus. Uyafutha. Uthi: “Amatye namatye, kuphela ngamatye amadala namatye.” Uye wahamba.
Nangona kunjalo imbali ye-Al Andalus ingaphezulu kakhulu kuneentsalela. Ukususela kumzuzu iinjengele zobukhosi bamaMuslim Ummayad bawela eGibraltar ngo-711, imbali yaseYurophu yatshintshwa.
AmaSilamsi andisa ulawulo lwawo kuyo yonke le ndawo ngoku ebizwa ngokuba yiSpain nePortugal nakwilizwe laseFransi yanamhlanje, edala izixeko ezaba ngamaziko okufunda nenkcubeko, eguqulela imisebenzi yenzululwazi nefilosofi ukusuka kwisiArabhu ukuya kwisiLatini, ngaloo ndlela ebeka iziseko zenzululwazi nefilosofi. kwiRenaissance yaseYurophu. Abachasayo yayiliqela lezikumkani zamaKristu zaseSpeyin ezathi, kwiminyaka engama-800 eyalandelayo, zalwela ukubuyisela losingasiqithi, inxalenye ngenxalenye, de, ngowe-1492, kwathatyathwa isixeko sokugqibela esasindayo saseGranada.
Ukusuka ePlaza Larga, ndithatha uthotho lweendlela zokuhamba ngamatye, ndisiya phezulu, ndibambe iindonga ezimhlophe ngamanye amaxesha ukuze ndibambe umoya wam njengoko ubushushu bemini bukhuphuka. Umvuzo wam ngumbono ovela kwi-Mirador de San Cristóbal, imbonakalo encinci ye-semicircular.
Ukusuka apha, ingqiqo yeAlhambra, inqaba yeNasrids kunye nesiseko seGranada, icacile. Imihlaba esemazantsi ityhila ngokucacileyo: imbonakalo engathintelwanga ngaphaya kwe-burgundy encotsheni yezakhiwo, idlula emaphethelweni esixeko, ukuya kumasimi aluhlaza nangaphezulu apho umhlaba ujika ube mdaka kunye neentaba zaseSierra Nevada ziphakama.
Ukusuka kwinqaba yabo eAlhambra, ubukhosi bakwaNasrid babenokulawula kummandla omkhulu waseSpeyin. Ukanti ngandlel’ ithile, ubunzulu besaqhwithi esasibahlasela ngenkulungwane ye-15 babungacacanga.
Naluphi na uhambo olunqumla emazantsi eSpain lukwenza udlule kwiidolophu ezininzi ezinezimamva ezifanayo- Jerez de la Frontera, Vejer de la Frontera - zonke izikhumbuzo zeelwimi zokuba umda ophakathi kwamaNasrid emirs kunye nabakhuphisana nabo abangamaKristu watshintsha amaxesha amaninzi.
I-Reconquista - iimfazwe zobukumkani bamaKristu aseSpain ukuphelisa ulawulo lwamaSilamsi kwi-peninsula - kwakungekho siganeko esinye; yaba ziinkulungwane ezininzi kwaye izizukulwana ezininzi zazalwa, zaphila kwaye zafa emthunzini wayo. Uluntu kumacala omabini omda orhwebo, lwalunezivumelwano zokudlula ngendlela ekhuselekileyo, kwaneminyhadala ekwabelwana ngayo – kunye namadabi akhohlakeleyo ngamaxesha athile. Omabini amacala athetha nge-convivencia, yokuhlalisana.
Kwizintlu zantlandlolo ezili-1,013 856 zeholo yemithandazo yaseMezquita yaseCórdoba, zingama-XNUMX ezisele ukususela ekubeni eso sakhiwo saguqulwayo saba yicawa. Imifanekiso kaManuel Cohen / Getty
Kodwa babesazi ukuba balindele ntoni emva koko. Ngenkulungwane ye-15 iGranada yayizele ngabantu ababebaleke kweminye imimandla yaseSpeyin.
INkundla Yokuncina Amakholwa yayifike kwiminyaka elishumi ngaphambili. Ii-conversos, ezo ntsapho zamaYuda ezaziguqukele kubuKristu phantsi koxinzelelo kodwa zazama ukugcina imikhwa yazo yentlalontle, zajongwa ngokurhaneleka okunzulu kwaye abaninzi babalekela kwindawo ekhuselekileyo yaseGranada.
Namhlanje, ukuhambahamba malunga ne-Albayzin, iintsalela zolu mxube zisabonakala: Ndidlula enye indlu yangasese kunye neNkwenkwezi zegolide zikaDavide emnyango, owenziwe kwi-arch yendabuko yamaSilamsi.
Kwabakho omnye ukuxubana kweenkolo, kungavunyelwananga kangako. Ngaphaya kwempuma eCordoba, eyayisakuba sisihlalo sokufunda kunye nesinye sezona zixeko zinabantu abaninzi eYurophu, amaCastilian aphinda asebenza iMezquita kwicawa, ekrola icawa phakathi kweendonga zayo kunye neentsika, kwaye ephinda ehlala esixekweni ngabantu abavela kwamanye amazwe. mantla. Inkqubo efanayo yayiza kuza eGranada.
Emva kommangaliso kukho iCawe yaseSan Cristobal. Ekuqaleni yayiyi-mosque, yatshintshwa yaza yakhiwa kwakhona, kunye ne-minaret eyenziwe yaba yinqaba yentsimbi. Iindonga zakhiwe ngamatye avela kumangcwaba amaSilamsi - nanamhlanje i-script yesi-Arabhu evela kumatye entloko ibonakala ngokucacileyo kwiindonga zangaphandle.
Ebusuku, ii-Albaicinis eziselula ziqokelelana apha - kunye nenkulu, i-Mirador de San Nicolas enkulu, eyaziwayo ngakumbi, ejongene ne-Alhambra - ukujonga inqaba ekhanyiswe ngemibala efudumeleyo, iindonga zeendonga ezikhazimulayo ezityheli kwimithi emnyama.
Baziva uthando lwalo mzuzu kwaye bayasebezelana. Kangangeenkulungwane ookhokho babo bamele ukuba babejonge ngaphesheya kweAlhambra becinga ukuba ayinako ukuqhawuka. Inokuba yawa njani?
Indlela eya e-Alhambra inyuka inqumla e-Albayzin, kwiigadi kunye neendonga ezimhlophe ezigqithileyo, ngaphambi kokuba ekugqibeleni ikubeke ngasemva kwemigca emide yabantu basemzini.
Ibhotwe ngokwenene lizakhiwo ezithathu: ibhotwe ngokwalo, kanye indawo yokuhlala yesultan, usapho lwakhe kunye nabacebisi bakhe; i-Alcazaba, inqaba kunye nenqaba, kunye neGeneralife, i-maze yegadi, iindlela kunye nemithombo. Ijongwe ukusuka kwi-Albayzin echaseneyo, ibonakala njengenqaba: ngaphakathi kweendonga zayo, amagumbi anobukhulu bomntu kwaye ahlala.
Ngaphakathi kwebhotwe, iinkcukacha ziyothusa: izikripthi ezisuka kwiQuran zihombisa iindonga, iimosaics ze-azure kunye ne-amber, uyilo olufihlakeleyo loyilo lwezakhiwo olujongeka njengamaqhinga okukhanya. Amagumbi ayayichasa ingcaciso ngenxa yokuba ayengafanelanga kuchazwa: ubuhle beAlhambra bulahlekile ekubukeni kwaye bufunyenwe ekusetyenzisweni.
Kuphela xa ndimisa kwenye yezitiya ezinomthunzi ukuze ndifunxa amanzi kwaye ndivumele amaqela abakhenkethi adlule apho ndibona umlingo noxolo lwebhotwe. Isandi sokuthontsiza kwamanzi emithonjeni siyayinyibilikisa ingqondo yam, ndizibone sele ndikhukuliseka, ndijonge ndingajonganga kumila kweendonga. Kudlule imizuzu engamashumi amane phambi kokuba ndiphakame.
Yayinjalo ke injongo yabaqulunqi. AmaSilamsi aseSpeyin aseAl Andalus awazange akhe izakhiwo zonqulo ukuze aphazamise abanye. Kubo, ulwakhiwo lonqulo lwenzelwe ukubonakalisa ubuThixo: imigca egqibeleleyo emela umanyano lukaThixo, imiyezo epholileyo ebonisa ubomi basemva kokufa.
Nanamhla oku, iAlhambra isasebenza: ezantsi esixekweni, iCathedral yaseGranada, eyakhelwe ukukhumbula ukubuyiswa kwesi sixeko, ngumxube onamandla wobungangamsha nokuzinikela, iglasi yayo enemibala, imifanekiso eqingqiweyo kunye neentsika ezimhlophe ezikhuthaza uloyiko kubanquli. Apha phezulu, impendulo yahlukile. Abafazi basebezela kubayeni babo malunga nokufaka ithayile kwigumbi lokuhlambela ngombala ofanayo. Indoda ibuza umhlobo wayo ukuba icinga ukuba ucango olunjalo lunokuxabisa malini emva ekhaya. Impahla yasekhaya ephefumlelwe yimpucuko eyafa kudala.
Imfihlakalo yeAlhambra sesosizathu sokuba baqhubeke beyakha. Iinkcukacha zobuchwephesha zibonisa umsebenzi wothando, ngokungathi abadali balo bakholelwa ukuba ukuxubana ngendlela yezibalo kunye nodaka kuya kuqinisekisa ukuba ibhotwe liyanyamezela, kwaye mhlawumbi nabo. Kwanaxa imikhosi yooKumkani bamaKatolika yayihlanganisene ngasentshona, iAlhambra yayisakhiwa.
Uninzi lweGranada yanamhlanje imalunga nexesha elidlulileyo - nokuba luzuko lwe-Al Andalus okanye ubukhulu beReconquista: ukwenziwa kunye nokuthatha. IiGranadinos ziyonwaba kuyo. Ngomhla we-2 kaJanuwari, usuku lwe-1492 xa abalawuli baseNasrid banikezelayo, isixeko sibhiyozela iDia de la Toma, uSuku lokuThatha, usuku lokuzonwabisa oluhlala luchaswa ngasekhohlo kwezopolitiko kwaye luphangwe ngasekunene.
Ukanti uninzi lwabakhenkethi luza kwimbali ngaphambi kweReconquista: iAlhambra yeyona ndawo idumileyo yabakhenkethi kulo lonke elaseSpain. Iitrinkethi ezithengiswa kwizitrato ezijikeleze iPlaza Bib Rambla zisekwe ngelo xesha - iingxowa kunye nezikhafu kunye neepowusta, uyilo oluvela kwi-Islamic Spain, ethengiswa ngabaseMoroccan, eyenziwe eTshayina.
Ukwenza ingqiqo yoku kuphikisana, ndiya kubona uMunira, igcisa elizalelwe eMelika endilifumene kuqala umsebenzi wakhe kwi-Grand Mosque e-Albayzin ngosuku olungaphambili kwaye oye wahlala kwisixeko iminyaka engamashumi amathathu.
“Oku kuphinda kubuywe okwexesha elidlulileyo lamaMoor kungenxa yezizathu zoshishino kuphela,” utshilo njengoko sihleli kwihotele ekumgangatho ophezulu kufuphi neReyes Catolicos kumbindi wedolophu, ikhefi ihonjiswe njengendlu yamaMoor. “Yile nto ifunwa ngabakhenkethi. Kwiminyaka engamashumi amathathu eyadlulayo, iAlhambra yalityalwa, kwakukho inkunkuma kuyo yonke indawo ngaphakathi. Kangangeminyaka engamakhulu amahlanu besilwa kwaye bezama ukuyicima, kodwa ngoku baye baqonda ukuba likamva labo yaye baye balamkela.”
Ndiyambuza ukuba kutheni abantu baseSpeyin benokwenza oko. Kutheni bengazivuseleli izithethe zabo eziyinyani? Uyandinqanda. “Awuqondi. Ixesha elidlulileyo lamaMoor sisiSpanish sokwenyani. AmaSilamsi ayengabemi baseSpeyin - ayelapha amakhulu eminyaka. Ukuba unokuba ngumMerika emva kwezizukulwana ezibini, kwanasemva kwesinye, kuthekani ngamaSilamsi awayelapha kangangamakhulu eminyaka?”
Enyanisweni, abanqobi baseSpain abazange bagxothe abantu basemzini - babebagxotha abantu babo. Ngomdlalo wokugqibela weReconquista, umphumo wawukhohlakele.
Kwimithunzi yoMthi werharnati, inoveli kaTariq Ali ecinga kwakhona ngelo xesha, izigidi zemibhalo-ngqangi zitshiswe emva kokuwa kweGranada, lonke ixabiso lempucuko yolwazi liyanyamalala.
I-Reconquista ihlala ikhunjulwa ngenxa yokunganyamezeli kwabalawuli bamaKatolika kumaSilamsi kunye namaYuda - incwadi ka-Ali isikhumbuza ukuba yayingamaKristu aseSpain awafumana ubunzima ngenxa yokulahlekelwa ngu-Al Andalus.
Ngobomi be-stroke kubantu baseSpeyin basezantsi batshintshile: abasandul 'ukufika ubukhulu becala babevela emantla, beneempawu ezahlukeneyo kunye namasiko, kwaye bazama ukucima zonke iintsalela zelo xesha - kunye neendawo zokuhlambela, ezibaluleke kakhulu kubomi bemihla ngemihla phantsi kwamaSilamsi, zavalwa kwaye ukuhlamba kwakuvaliwe ngabalawuli abatsha. Kodwa kukho intsalela enye abangazange bakwazi ukuyisusa.
I-Elvira sisitrato saseMagreb. Embindini wesixeko, ibaleka ngokunxuseneyo neyona ndlela iphambili yeGran Via de Colon. Kulapho impembelelo yanamhlanje yama-Arabhu kunye ne-Berber yomelele kakhulu.
Ekupheleni kwayo ngasentshona kukho imingxunya ye-schwarma-eludongeni kunye neevenkile ezithengisa izinto zaseMorocco: abafazi abanxibe ii-headscarves babamba izandla kwaye bahleke ngesiArabhu, ngelixa amaJamani eejee eziqinileyo kunye namaSpanish angenahempe kwiibhayisekile adlula.
Kwizitrato ezikhuphayo, isandi samanzi ahambayo sidibanisa nomculo wesi-Arabhu kunye noKatie Melua. Ezi ziindawo ezihlala ababhaka: kwiikhefi ezikhanyiswe zizibane zaseMoroccan, abantu abancinci baseYurophu nabaseMntla Melika batshintshiselana ngamabali ngebhiya. Kukho i-hippie vibe: iitshali kunye neengubo ezinemibala yomhlaba, amakhandlela kunye nemifanekiso eqingqiweyo kaBuddha.
Kodwa ekupheleni kwempuma, kufuphi nalapho u-Elvira afikelela khona eReyes Catolicos, apho umfanekiso ka-Queen Isabella noChristopher Columbus uhleli khona, le ndawo iya ikhula. Apha abakhenkethi abatyebileyo abangakumbi beza ukuze bahlawule imali entle ukuze batye kakuhle.
Le yindlela endidibana ngayo noMustafa, umnini-ndawo ohlala kuyo weendawo zokutyela ezimbini zaseMoroccan, indoda echitha iintsuku zayo ejikelezwe ngabakhenkethi baseTurkey kunye neembongi zaseMelika. Undimema ukuba ndibe no-paella kunye naye, ukuthetha ngezopolitiko kunye nokuhamba - kwaye ngokuqinisekileyo ukutya.
Kuba i-legacies ebonakalayo ye-Al Andalus ikwizakhiwo kunye nokutya: apho abantu bahlala khona kunye nento abayidlayo. Ukutya kwakusoloko kungumxube omkhulu weenkcubeko, iiyantlukwano zeengcamango eziwela phezu kwetafile yokutya.
Ukutya okuninzi kumzantsi weSpeyin bekungayi kubakho ngaphandle kwempembelelo yamaSilamsi: ama-Arabhu azisa eYurophu ngaphesheya kweStrait yaseGibraltar ukusetyenziswa kwe-paprika kunye neealmond; beza nombono wokutya okuziikhosi ezintathu kunye nentabalala yeepastries. Kwanokuba uninzi lwezitya zaseSpain, i-paella, zazingenakukwazi ukuba ama-Arabhu ayengazisanga ukulinywa kwerayisi, okanye isafron enika isitya uphawu lwaso lokuthengisa umbala omthubi.
Kodwa uMustafa undixelela elinye ibali elibonisa ukwehla kunye nokuhamba kweenkcubeko. Undiphathele ipleyiti ye-bastella, i-pastry emhlophe eyenziwe ngenkukhu, i-almonds ethosiweyo kunye namaqanda.
Uthi: “Yile nto babedla ngokuyitya eGranada, kodwa xa ama-Arabhu egxothwayo, aya eFez.
“Ndisuka eFez – eFez, siyenza ngehobe, hayi inkukhu. Kodwa i-bastella yalityalwa eGranada emva kweReconquista kwaye yafunyanwa kuphela ngabenzi be-pastry baseSpain kule minyaka ingamashumi amabini idlulileyo, xa abantu baseMorocco baqala ukuza. Abantu baseMorocco babuyise ilifa leSpanishi.
KungoLwesihlanu ebusuku, ubusuku bam bokugqibela eGranada, yaye ndidiniwe ngamatye namatye amadala. Umhambi wase-Italiya undixelela ngendawo efanelekileyo ye-tapas, efihlwe phakathi kweebhari kunye neendawo zokutyela ezipepile isithili saseyunivesithi.
Ndibhadula ezitalatweni ezisemazantsi nakwintshona yePlaza Trinidad, apho wonke umntu eselula, eSpanish kwaye ebhiyozela ukuphela kwezifundo zabo. Iindawo apho amagama abantu abaswelekileyo ahlala ezincwadini kwaye abancinci bambombozela amabali abo, bedliwe bengenalifa kodwa elabo. Andizange ndiyifumane indawo ye-tapas.
Oko, ndiyacinga ngoku, yayiyenye nje into ethethwayo.
